'
Great Brazilian
Adventure – June/July 2026
Sunday, June 29th
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| Travelling to Brazil to celebrate Elaine's wedding - the highlight of our year |
For our family to get to this point, it’s been a long road. Since our daughter Elaine’s husband Alex passed away seven years ago, we have all longed to see her matched with another suitable companion for life. Thanks to the marvels of the internet, finding one’s perfect match has added another arrow to its quiver, namely online dating. We are grateful that this has allowed Elaine to search for and find a man who matches her not only in interests and Christian convictions, but who has also been widowed and is bringing up two teenage girls. There is the small, but not insignificant matter, that this man, Alessandro de Costa lives in Brazil. He is pastoring a Presbyterian church in a mid size town (Monte Alto) of 60,000 or so, five hours north west of Sao Paulo in the hinterland of Brazil. He is bringing up Beatrice, aged 17, and Elise, aged 14, and has two older children, who have left home, Isabella and Emmanuel.
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| L-R Elise and Beatriz |
As one can imagine, the process is not
straightforward. Challenges abound – language, geography, culture and
immigration into Canada issues, spring to mind. Nevertheless, with God all
things are possible, and Cheryl and I are enjoying being part of the process
and doing what we can to smooth the flow of events. Cheryl and I have started
learning Portuguese, as Elaine has told us very few people in Brazil speak any
English
We are about to board a plane which will begin our
trip to Monte Alto. Elaine and her two kids, Gloria, a family friend of
Elaine’s and Julia, our daughter and her three boys are already en route. We
will all rendezvous in Sao Paulo. Alessandro will meet us there, with a fifteen
seater van and shepherd us through the first part of our trip.
It’s all go – no turning back now.
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| Brazil is as large as the USA, with 230 million people |
It’s time to board. I’m not relishing the idea of a 10-hour
flight. Cramped airplane seats are not my idea of fun. I fantasize about my
comfortable bed at home. Oh well I suppose it’s for a good cause.
Monday June 30th
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| Sao Paulo - S. America's largest city with 12 million people |
We met up with Elaine, Julia and their kids who had arrived
a couple of hours earlier. Alessandro was also there having driven from Monte
Alto in the 15-seater bus since 4am. We needed some cash to draw some local currency,
and went to the ATM as we usually do. We quickly discovered the exchange rate
on offer was extremely poor, to the point of daylight robbery. We held our
noses and drew a modest amount. It turns out most people pay for everything on
debit or credit and cash is seldom asked for. So we enjoyed our first unnecessary and
expensive lesson
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| Tired and bedraggled but cheered up by Alessandro's warm welcome to Brazil |
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| A five hour drive to Monte Alto - nap time |
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| En Route rest stop a la Brazil - very upmarket and a good place to watch the home country playing Japan - a very tense game |
Whilst having our lunch we experienced a more enjoyable Brazilian moment. Brazil was playing Japan soccer in the FIFA world cup. Japan was up 1 to 0. The diners were somber but the game was yet young. Then the Brazilians scored the equalizer and the crowd went crazy. Hope was back on the table. At some point Brazil scored again and the crowd went ballistic. I’m guessing its not safe in these parts to be anything other than a Brazilian supporter.
The rest of our journey was long and tedious. We eventually dragged ourselves into Monte Alto at about 8pm. It was dark and we were yearning for sleep, but we had to do some basic shopping for our Air BnB which of course had no supplies ready and waiting.
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| A massive mural of the Last Supper adorned the front of the store |
This was a surreal experience. The modest sized grocery store looked like most Canadian ones excepting few of the products were recognizable. It took us a while to get some modest supplies to tide us over for the first 24 hours. One remarkable feature in the store on the front wall, was a very large painting of Jesus and the disciples at the last supper. It was refreshing to see such an unashamed depiction of the owner’s Christian allegiances. My spirits were lifted. There is hope.
Our Air BnB is about 15 kilometres out in the bush on
a small holding. After our grocery expedition we seemed to be driving to the
ends of the earth, with barely any lights to be seen anywhere. Our
accommodation was modest but had a large swimming pool which was promising. We
were exhausted, ate a quick snack and headed for bed. Tomorrow we would be
rested and everything would look different.
Tuesday, June 31st
We awoke at 7.15am, sinfully late for Cher and I, to a
bright sunny morning. Apart from Gloria, no one else was awake. The pool looked
too inviting to not go in, so I took the opportunity and enjoyed a few laps of
relatively warm water. Remember that this is the depth of a Brazilian winter we
are talking about here. We could get used to this.
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| The horse was a great novelty |
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| The AirBnB even had a Guinea Fowl known by Brazilians as an Angolan chicken - go figure. |
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| Each evening the horse from the neighboring farm would visit the horse on our property. |
The wheels came off of our pre-booked car rental arrangement pretty quickly once we arrived. The very nice lady asked us for our passports. Well who thinks of taking a passport to rent a car? Alessandro explained that Brazil is a very bureaucratic country. There is a way to rent a car and we shouldn’t try to change the system, we’d be wasting our breath. So, we tightened our patience muscles and drove the 40 kilometers or so back to the farm to get our passports. I felt very bad for Alessandro who had a list as long as his arm of things to do, four days ahead of his wedding.
Back to the rental place and all was well until we
came to the paperwork for the second vehicle.
They informed us that we did not have a second booking. The computer had
seen two identical bookings both in my name and assumed it was a duplicate and
cancelled the second one, without notifying us of that minor detail. They could
offer us a second vehicle but the price would be at today’s price because
online booking is cheaper and we were now booking directly with them. Our blood
pressures rose another few notches, whilst we argued the case back and forth.
There was no budging. Rules are rules – don’t try and change the system. We
eventually caved and it turned out the price was the same and with a now
different exchange rate it cost us just $25 extra for a ten day rental. Some
things one just has to roll with the punches.
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| Julia, Beatriz and Elisa on our first shopping foray. Fresh produce was easy. Other things - not so much |
Such is life in a cross cultural situation. Every
simple task and chore can become mind numbingly challenging.
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| The pool entertained us all for hours every day. |
Alessandro arrived a bit later for our first full new-family meal together. Alessandro’s Mom, Catarina, was there along with Beatriz (17) and Elisa (13). Alessandro’s two older kids Emmanuel and Isabella were still in Sao Paulo and would be arriving the day before the wedding.
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| How many trees have been cut to provide beautiful tables like this? |
It was a slightly surreal experience sharing a meal
with our about to be new family members. We had all met for the first time within the
last 24 hours. So much to learn of each other and yet so limited by language
and opportunity. We are all beginning a new chapter and we face it with a
measure of trepidation, but also gratitude for God’s provision for an
opportunity for these two families who have suffered loss, to blend, heal and
grow together.
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| Two families embarking on the adventure of melding into one. Our first meal together. |
Wednesday July 1st, Canada Day
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| This part of Brazil looks like great farm land |
One of my jobs in the early morning has been to unlock the two large metal gates which cover the entrance to our property. The second gate is at the top of the hill from which one has a wonderful view of the surrounding farm fields and patches of forest. Each morning as I walk back down the hill I have been greeted by a dog presumably from one of the neighboring farms. She comes running up to greet me and then stands dead still while I stroke and pet her and whisper sweet nothings to her. I have labelled her my guardian angel dog. Her greeting each morning is so personal and so celebratory to be in my presence, she must be a messenger sent by the Lord to greet me.
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| Elaine and Alessandro chatting to Elaine's pastor in Toronto. What a small world we live in. |
Our pool had come with no pool toys, so my first
mission was to go into town and find some. Julia and Elaine’s phones weren’t
working so they needed to buy a different plan. Julia, James and I ventured on
our first unaccompanied trip. We found a pharmacy that sold cell phone plans.
Julia did well with her starter Portuguese explaining what was needed and with
no problems Elaine’s phone was up and running. Julia’s phone however, would just
not work. One of the cashiers, Caroline, rolled up her sleeves and helped
Julia. She must have spent an hour with no luck. Believe it or not, but part of
the process required providing her passport info. Sigh, and we complain about
Canadian bureaucracy. Eventually we were given the address of the company who
provided the plans and Caroline assured Julia that they would get it working. As
it turns out they too, cannot get it working.
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| Grandson John taking full advantage of all the pool noodles. |
I haven’t mentioned about driving in Monte Alto. Firstly,
we have to cover about 10 kms of dirt road to get to town. The road is nicely
graded and in good shape, but cars hurtle down it, like they are in a race to
the next life. Once that hurdle has been overcome, we get onto paved roads
which apart from occasional pot holes are not in bad shape. The unannounced
terror though is in the significant speed bumps which pop up every couple of
hundred meters. Some of them look like they’ve never seen a drop of paint, so
spotting them is a bit of an art. I have discovered it is best to watch the
vehicles ahead of us, and they are a good clue as to what is coming next.
The other disconcerting and exhausting part of driving
in this town is the proliferation of signs that read “Pares” which translated
means “Stop”. As it turns out, this is just a guideline and what Pares really
means is a combination of “Yield, or at least watch out for other cars, in case
they’re coming, but by and large just “drive with caution”. It’s a bit of a
guessing game. Monte Alto town is built on quite a steep hill, so water
drainage is obviously an issue to be dealt with. At the intersections, the
downhill roads basically have an indented drain to carry the water down the
hill. They act as an inverted speed bump on either side of the intersection if
one is travelling sideways to the hill. Probably 90% of the roads in Monte Alto
are one way, so navigating intersections is a bit of a guessing game between
figuring out if we have right of way ie a main road, and from what direction
the transverse traffic might be entering the intersection and remembering that
each intersection holds two speed bumps. I find myself yearning for a simple
race down the 401. At least there are no speed bumps and we know which
direction the cars are going.
We had no sooner arrived back from our expedition when
Elaine announced that she needed to find another hairdresser as the one she had
previously booked had cancelled. Cher, Elaine and I drove back into town to
visit various options and find someone suitable. We picked up Beatriz,
Alessandro’s 17 year old, whose English is good, to be our intermediary and
translator. It turned out that Wednesday afternoons are “hairdresser day off”,
so our search was long and tedious as we kept driving around the town trying to
find someone who could take a late booking, two days later. For me, the driver,
it was a stressful exercise – refer to my previous paragraph on driving in
Monte Alto. Eventually we uncovered a good-looking prospect and arrangements
were duly made over the phone. Whew – imagine sending a bride to the altar
without her hair properly seen to.
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| Elaine and Alessandro practicing a few dance moves ahead of the big day. |
Our day ended uneventfully and we all headed for an
earlyish night. We are getting close to the big day and we need our beauty
sleep.
Thursday July 2nd
I was expecting an early drive with Alessandro and
Samuel, Elaine’s son, to a town about an hour’s drive away to buy Sam a suit. The
suit that had been bought for Sam was very poor quality, so another plan had had
to be made. At the last moment it turned out that Alessandro had found
somewhere in Monte Alto that rented suits so that made life a whole lot easier.
Next up was the wedding rehearsal at the church.
Patricia the florist cum wedding planner arrived on her Vespa scooter to take
charge. Thankfully she did, as there were quite a few twists and turns to
consider as we navigated the arrangements, with a lot of translation, facilitated
by much animated hand gesturing by Patricia. Eventually we had it all figured
out and knew who was walking who down the aisle, in what order and at what
speed. Then who was exiting the service with whom and how we were getting all
the right people to the reception hall in the right order. I reminded Sam that
he was getting an inside look at what really goes into getting married. It’s
not just a matter of turn up looking good and cheer the happy couple on.
Back to the farm for lunch and a snooze. Cher and
Julia went off on a jaunt into town with her boys to do battle with the cell
phone company. As it turned out, the phone plan providers were also defeated
and Julia came away with a non-working cell phone having paid for two different
plans. Fortunately, Cher’s and my phones are working so we are able to make do.
The trip also included a “find a Portuguese Pokemon set” component and the boys
came back flush with victory at having found a good deal each.
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| Beatriz and Sam didn't have much time to practice their singing and keyboard contributions to the wedding service. They did well despite this. |
We ended the evening with a movie. Pride and Prejudice
was the order of the day, considering that romance was in the air. Despite a
few groans from the boys, we all enjoyed it and it was time to hit the sack.
Tomorrow is the last day pre-wedding. Lots to do, nerves to keep intact and
generally keep the show moving along.
Friday July 3rd
It’s a big day today. All the ladies are having their
finger nails done, compliments of one of the members of the church. They had a six-hour
session booked to get through all the key ladies. To the male members of the
group this seemed excessive, but we were politely assured it was a special bonding
moment for the ladies, and we should not trouble ourselves unduly.
What are boys to do when left without ladies to curb
their basic instincts? Go on a mystery tour of course? I had unfettered charge
of four boys for the morning and had decided to do a visit to the local tourist
information office, find out what we could do for the few days we will be here
on our own while Elaine and Alessandro were away. I would then take the boys
for an ice cream. After a brief GPS
search for the tourist info office, I and the four boys were off. I was
impervious to their pleas for me to tell them where we were going. Mystery tour -no more, no less. The GPS confidently led us
to the address the kind lady in the GPS had guided us to. We were outside of a
rather grubby looking house – no sign of a Touristico Informacio office
anywhere. I was a bit stumped. Where to next? As it turns out there is no such
office in Monte Alto.
At that very moment of indecision, Cher called to say
that Elaine urgently needed to get back into our Airbnb and I had the keys of
the property on me. I needed to return asap. So, I returned the boys to the
house, much to their relief. One of them commented, “well that was a waste of
an hour, can we swim now?” So much for a nice boys morning out. I guess
Grandad’s mystery tours lose their appeal at a certain age and stage.
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| Catarina, Alessandro's Mom, Eliene and Alessandro getting set up for the big BBQ. |
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| Producing the meat is men's work - Andre and Alessandro display their handiwork |
The house is built with a special BBQ cook house off
of a side kitchen. It opens up to the pool area but the cooking happens from
inside, so I guess could be used for accessing meat directly off of the BBQ. It
must be unbearably hot in there at the height of their summer.
After about 30 -40 minutes, Alessandro started
delivering large quantities of meat to the table where the hungry hordes were
waiting expectantly. As the meal progressed, more meat kept arriving – beef,
chicken and pork. The final coup de grace, was the outer skin of the pork,
which we would call crackling, was delivered, complete with a half inch of fat.
This is considered to be very delectable.
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| Alessandro's piece de resistance - Brazilian pudding. Delicious |
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| Soon to be married Andre and Eliene (next week), Cher and I enjoyed an hour of sharing compliments of Google Translate |
It had turned into a real pool party and the day ended with a pool full of young folks playing games and just generally winding down in preparation for the big day tomorrow. Alessandro and his group left not too late as we were all feeling the need for an earlyish night. As it turned out, it would not be so for Alessandro. More on that tomorrow.
Saturday July 4th
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| The wedding party must be sent off in clean cars - with a 10 km dirt road to navigate it was a complete waste of time! |
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| Sam and Rob waiting at the hairdresser |
As it turned out, when we arrived at the hairdresser,
Beatriz, Alessandro’s daughter, was supposed to be there waiting to interpret
for Elaine. We called Beatriz and Alessandro was out, so not available to give
her a ride. His older daughter, Isabella, and son Emmanuel, had arrived by bus
at 2am that morning at the bus station from Sao Paulo and he had needed to pick
them up in the dead of night. They had had a few hours of sleep and it turned
out that Isabella had needed a new pair of shoes and Emmanuel needed a belt.
Alessandro also needed to pick up his suit which was supposed to have been ready the
day before but hadn’t been. So they were all out seeing to chores. The wedding
was scheduled for 11am. Sheesh. Talk about cutting it fine. Bottom line, he was
out shopping and Beatriz had no way to get to the hairdresser where Elaine
needed her for translation. I needed to go and pick up Beatriz, which took about
half an hour. There went my 45 minute turn around buffer I thought I would have
had.
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| The hairdresser's garden - a great place for photos |
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| The beginning of a new chapter for Elaine and Alessandro who have both experienced significant loss in recent years. |
I had the privilege of walking Elaine down the aisle
and handing her over to the good care of Alessandro. I felt quite emotional. It
has been seven and a half years since Elaine lost Alex, her first husband, to cancer. She has been quite self-sufficient, but of course Cher and I have
wanted to stand in the gap as much as we could for her while she has been a
single mom. I felt happy for her on the one hand and yet sad at losing the
closeness we had enjoyed by having her all to ourselves. Bottom line, we are
both delighted to welcome Alessandro and his kids into our family circle and
vice versa.
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| The full bridal party (L-R) - Beatriz (17), Esther (14), Emmanuel (early 20/s), Elaine, Alessandro Samuel 17, Isabella (early 20's), Elisa |
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| A lovely buffet meal was served |
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| Some traditions are the same everywhere |
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| Beatriz, Esther and Cher, very intent on something. |
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| The new cousins and siblings beginning to bond and blend. What a blessing. |
In a strange way because of our particular circumstances, Elaine needed to come home with us to get showered and changed. Alessandro had to do the same on his side and he then came over to the farm with all of his kids to pick Elaine up before they headed out for a couple of days on their own.
To avoid the feeling of let down at the end of all the
excitement, our whole blended group gathered to watch the highlights of the
Canada v Morocco soccer game in which Canada lost quite convincingly. After that we
were pretty much done and all headed for bed.
The blended family group was all good to go and yet it
seemed to be too soon to be saying farewells. Emmanuel and Isabella and her
boyfriend Caua were returning to Sao Paulo on Sunday afternoon, the next day.
We couldn’t bear to be saying goodbye to them all so soon, so made a plan to
meet them all the next day, after church for them to show us around the market.
I then took them home and we all headed for bed having had a memorable day.
Sunday July 5th
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| Julia, our youngest. A special blessing to us. |
For church we had decided to watch the Unionville
Alliance service from the previous week online rather than try and take in a
Portuguese only service at Alessandro’s church with him not even being there.
After that we piled into our two rental cars to go and
meet up with Alessandro’s kids who had promised to show us around the weekly farmers’
market. We were a bit late by the time we got there so a few of the stalls had already
packed up. However the real reason we were there was to sample the “pastel”,
which is a type of crispy patty stuffed with a variety of meat and cheese
fillings. I gather that pastel is very much a common snack and they were
reasonably priced. It is definitely something we will try again.
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| Pastel - a relatively cheap and tasty treat |
The boys discovered that they could buy little
miniature firework bombs at the ice cream shop. They came away loaded up with
mini bombs which explode when thrown on the ground. The rest of us had to
endure being plagued with sharp explosions going off in all directions for the
next few hours.
After our ice cream jaunt, it was time to bid farewell to Isabella and Caua her
boyfriend, and Emmanuel. They were catching a 3pm bus in a neighboring town. It
was sad to be reducing our number so soon after having just met. These are our
new family members and despite our different backgrounds, we had clicked, which
is something we’ve been praying for.
After the fond farewells we headed home for a nap and
a quiet afternoon catching up on ourselves after the busyness of the last few
days. With all my running around doing errands my rental car needed topping up.
It turns out that most gas stations are also closed on Sundays but I did locate one that
was open. They don’t do self-serve in Brazil. The two attendants and I had a
bit of a discussion, compliments of Google Translate about whether I needed
Ethanol or Gas to fill up my car. They were pretty adamant I needed Ethanol,
presumably because it’s a bit cheaper. Alessandro had told me that in Brazil
they add 30% of ethanol to their gas which is made from all the sugar cane they
produce. In North America the ethanol content of our gas is limited to 10% as
it is considered not very good for car engines. Anyway I decided to take the advice of the two
service attendants and fill up with the Ethanol option. So far the car is
running fine. I ‘ve always believed in taking the advice of professionals.
Now that Canada had been eliminated from the FIFA
competition, we had switched our allegiance to Brazil. We spent a bit of time
watching Norway eliminate Brazil 2-1 which was sad, but that’s life in the fast
lane I guess.
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| Grandson John and Rob in another hard fought battle |
Monday July 6th
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| Esther, surrounded by her adoring cousins and siblings on her fifteenth birthday. |
We decided to explore the property as we hadn’t had a
good look around. We had to keep a leery eye out for the one cow in particular
who apparently can be a bit grumpy. They have sharp horns and only speak
Portuguese so we were watchful. Fortunately, they were up in a different field,
so we could relax.
The farm sits on a fairly steep hill. At the bottom of
it, where the fence marks the property line, the land drops off in a steep
cliff. From this vantage point there is a magnificent outlook over what look
like very rich farmlands – sugar cane, citrus and possibly some vineyards.
The rest of the day was very relaxed with swimming,
reading and card games. Elaine and Alessandro arrived back from their couple of
days away and it was good to see them looking relaxed and rested. The run up to
the wedding had been busy and stressful for them both, so now they could begin
to unwind a bit.
Alessandros’s family came out for the evening as we
had a special dinner planned for Esther’s birthday. After the dinner the kids played
a game which Beatriz had brought. It was good to see them all beginning to relax
in each other’s company. We wound up the evening watching a two minute video of
the wedding, which Patricia, the wedding planner, had produced. She will also
use it to promote her business. We also watched a brief video of Esther’s final
ballet concert at the end of June.
Alessandro’s family left early and Cher and I headed
for bed early, leaving the younger set watching a movie. We had books to read
and would soon be in the land of nod.
Tuesday July 7th
Cher and I slept in and woke to find most of the rest
of the group up and about. I tiptoed to the kitchen to quietly make Cher and I
a cup of tea. I made a strategic error in halfheartedly asking if anyone else
would like a cup of tea. It was as if they had all been waiting for this moment
and six responses shot back in the affirmative. Sigh – there went my nice
peaceful cup of tea with my wife while we eased ourselves gently into the day.
At breakfast that morning I decided enough was enough.
I offered a no-charge, as in free, tutorial, after breakfast for grandchildren
who wished to learn how to make their grandparents a tea or coffee whenever
needed. Sadly, there were no takers. Esther, who is normally one of the less
raucous, and least troublesome of the grandchildren commented that “I can’t see
any net benefit in attending the course”. I suppose it had been worth a try.
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| Laundry day - the old fashioned way. |
We discovered a garbage emergency. Our garbage had
been accumulating for a week. We couldn’t leave it outside as it would have been trashed by critters, so
we had put it out of the way into the BBQ kitchen. Cher just happened to pop
her head in there to find maggots crawling out of the garbage bags in every
direction. Aaaagh!. These are nasty little creatures who can move at quite a
good pace. Fortunately, Giselle, the owner of the Airbnb arrived shortly after
to feed the livestock. She was not fussed. “Oh, nao problemo – just stack it up
in that barrel over there and I will burn it”. She emerged from a storeroom
with a blow gun like flamethrower and proceeded to send the maggots to a fiery
death. Such is life in the backwoods of Brazil – nao problemo.
After lunch I was subjected to yet another humiliating
defeat by Samuel and John in a hotly contested game of Canasta. The problem
with John, is he loves to announce to the whole world that he has defeated his
granddad. I need to talk to his parents about him toning it down a bit.
Patricia, the church member, who had done the wedding party’s
fingernails, had made a special invitation to our whole party to come to her
house where she was organizing a tea party. Alessandro said he thought the boys
would prefer to go for a boys outing and leave the ladies to enjoy themselves
in peace.
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| Boy's tea party - with Alessandro entertaining us with his stories |
Patricia had laid on a wonderful spread for the ladies
and had gone the extra mile for them. She included an object lesson, which
showed how our lives start off clean and simple, presenting them each with a
piece of smooth colored gift-wrapping tissue paper. As our lives go, things can
get messy (crumpled) and broken (bits
torn off). Then others who have suffered similar hardships come into our lives and together we are able
to bring beauty into each others lives. The object lesson ended with a
beautiful multicolored flower each. It was a very touching message as everyone
in the room had suffered significant loss, but God is bringing them together as
a family to make something beautiful despite the hardships each has
experienced.
We were very grateful to Patricia who had initiated
this time. The body of Christ is remarkable when we apply our giftings for the
benefit of others.
We returned home, thoroughly blessed, for a quiet
evening and earlyish night.
Wednesday July 9, 2026
Today we are winding up our time here in the backwoods
of Monte Alto. Alessandro dropped off Beatriz and Elisa for a final swim mid-morning,
while he went back to work on church related business – he still has a regular
job as a pastor to contend with in amongst seeing to the varied needs of his
ten additional family members he has married into.
This morning I taught John how to play Canasta in
pairs. Elaine and Julia joined us My
strategy was to average him out a bit by connecting him to a partner. Perhaps
his partner would slow him down a bit. It backfired on me badly because he and Elaine
could do no wrong and they wiped the floor with Julia and I despite our noble
efforts to put up a strong showing. Sigh. I’ll never live this down.
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| Elisa, James and Peter - cousin bonding time |
We squeaked in to Localiza the rental agency, by
5.45pm. Lo and behold the same two women who had dealt with us when we rented, greeted us
unsmilingly – they clearly considered us trouble. The manager was in charge.
She looked up our file and with something close to glee announced that our
return was two hours late and we would have to pay an additional day’s rent on
each vehicle.. They had sent us an email the day before telling us in perfectly
clear Portuguese that the latest we could return the vehicles was 4pm. I hadn’t bothered to read the email,
firstly because it was unintelligible to me, but also because I knew they were
open until 6pm. I have to confess, having rented vehicles before that I should
have known that I had to return them within the same time range as the rental time. Sigh.
Some lessons are best learnt the hard way. I take full responsibility, although
I would never admit that to the rather stern looking manager.
Julia had promised the group that we would buy
“pastels”, a type of Jamaican patty, as a final night’s treat. Alessandro took
us to the place that makes the best ones. The place was full of local folk, who
clearly knew what Alessandro knew. The menu was two full pages long – just
about any combination of filling one could ever imagine. When we ordered Julia
was told it would be a 30 minute wait. We settled down for another unexpected
delay. Our little jaunt to return the cars had turned into a major outing. We
eventually dragged ourselves back to the farm at 8.45pm four hours after
departing. The hungry hordes were waiting expectantly and fell upon the pastels
as if they hadn’t seen a good meal in a month.
The party was over. Alessandro took Beatriz and Elisa
home, the kids were lining up to watch two different movies, one girlie flavored
and one for those a with a preference for a bit more testosterone. Cher and I
went to do some fine tuning on our packing and head for an earlyish night. The
van is picking us up at 7am tomorrow to take us to Sao Paulo airport en route
to Iguassu Falls, one of the world’s natural wonders.
Thursday July 9th,
Up at 5am to get the water on the boil for a cup of tea, hopefully without a bunch of free loaders also wanting one. There is no
kettle in this Airbnb. It has to be boiled on the gas stove, so its not a fast
process.
Once all of my final bits and pieces were wrestled into my luggage, I took a stroll in the pitch dark up the hill to unlock the two gates guarding the property. I wondered if my guardian angel greeting dog would meet me so early. No sign of her. As I walked down the hill I heard a squeal and a yelp behind me and there she was – sent by the Lord to remind me that no matter the time of day or location, He sees us and we are special to Him. I stopped to pet her and she stood stock still enjoying the attention. I beckoned her “Vamos”, down the hill with me, and went and called Peter who had been keen to meet her.
We all gathered on the massive front verandah to sing
our third birthday family greeting of the week to Chris, Julia’s husband, who sadly,
had not been able to join us on this trip for health reasons. This time our
singing was online, but by now our choir has improved so it was quite a good
rendition. We are really sorry Chris has not been able to join us for health
reasons.
We are losing four of our group today, which is sad.
Alessandro and Elaine are staying to enjoy a few weeks of marriage on their own.
Gloria is returning to Toronto and Catarina, Alessandro’s mom, is flying back
to Rio de Janeiro where she lives. Beatriz and Elisa will join the main group to
spend a week together with us, taking in Iguassu Falls before we all head back
for a couple of days at a beach resort south of Sao Paulo.
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| Sandros, with his 15 seater van was a blessing for a group of our size. |
On this leg we are prepared with all manner of snacks.
We had been burnt the first time on our way to Monte Alto at the road stop
where our simple lunch had cost us quite a bit more than expected. After a
couple of hours of driving Sandros stopped us off for a washroom and coffee
break. Sam and I ordered a coffee each. Sam wanted a small and I ordered a
medium. When they arrived, Sam’s coffee looked like it belonged in the thimble
department it was so small. My medium looked like a small Small by Canadian
standards. We had a chuckle and I sent Sam off to order himself a medium.
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| One of our roadside stops featured a very retro 50's and 60's look |
Little did we
know that our day was about to unravel rather dramatically. As we were heading
for the airport, Cheryl suddenly gasped and said, “who has Sammy and Esther’s
passports? Sam and Esther looked blank as if to say, “don’t ask us. We’re
minors. We don’t think about such things”. My experience with the car rental
agency had taught me that pretty much nothing happens for foreigners in Brazil,
without a passport. Panic set in. We relaxed when we realized that we had
digital copies of both documents. A quick call to Elaine confirmed that she had
the passports and had forgotten to give them to the kids. She was five to six
hours drive away in Monte Alto.
We were about four hours early at the airport, “just in
case something goes wrong”, so we had lots of time. We took a deep breath and
decided the digital documents would have to work. It’s an internal flight, no
borders being crossed. It should be ok. I mean really. How little we
underestimated the apparent rigidity of Brazilian bureaucracy.
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| Our group en route to catch our various planes, trains and buses. At that point we were still smiling. |
We were in Terminal 2. Six of us were on one booking,
so we all ran to Terminal 3. We needed to stick together. Along the way Cheryl
took a really bad tumble and went sprawling, cell phone went skittering and
everyone around took a collective gasp. One doesn’t keep Cheryl down in the
midst of an emergency. She gamely stood up, shook herself down and took off again,
albeit with a pronounced limp. We arrived at the Emergency Documents desk and
lo and behold it was closed and we were told it is now in Terminal 2 where we
had just come form. We were beginning to lose heart as time was slipping by
fast.
Back to Terminal 2 at a fast pace, where we finally
located a Police Station. No one knew where the Emergency Documents office was.
We pleaded with the helpful police officer to authorize our documents and
approve us to board the flight. He was sympathetic but could not help. “Go and
plead your case with the airline”. Back to the airline desk and we shamelessly
jumped the line up. Been there done that. “Sorry, nao possible”, was the
response.
We finally decided that we would send Sammy, Beatrice
and Elisa to Iguassu with Julia and her kids, all of whom had working
documentation, while Cher and I stayed with Esther overnight, which allowed
time for Elaine and Alessandro to drive the five hours to deliver their
passports, and then have to drive back to Monte Alto overnight. We eventually
opted to do that, and pushed to the front of the line up yet again to be told
that they had now closed the luggage loading and it was not possible for the
three of them to board. The airline desk glibly suggested we go and change our
seats to the morning. They must need special training to do this kind of thing
with a straight face.
We waved Julia and the boys off to Iguassu, planning
to reconnect with them the next day. We
then proceeded to go to change our flights to the next day. The young man who
helped us was very intense and spent at least 45 minutes tapping away furtively
on his computer. We then heard him whispering to one of the other service
attendants. He finally took a deep breath and said, “It will cost you $5500 to
change your tickets and we cannot book Esther because she does not have hard
copy travel documents”. We pointed out that when we checked in in the morning
we would have her passport. “Nao, you cannot make a booking without a valid
hard copy passport. We pointed out that we had made our original booking online
with no documentation. “Sorry, it cannot be done”.
At this point, we just gave up. We told Elaine and Alessandro
to cancel their plans to deliver the passports, and we made the tough decision
that Iguassu Falls would just have to wait until another time for six out of our
group of ten. After Iguassu Falls, we had planned to spend three days in
Santos, which is a beach resort a couple of hours from Sao Paulo. We contacted
the AirBnB we had booked at and managed to extend our stay there, found a
Hampton Hilton hotel nearby, which could pick us up and offer us a bed for the
night and breakfast in the morning. We would then rent a van in the morning and
drive to Santos. We broke the news to Julia when she landed in Iguassu, which
was pretty devastating for her, but there was nothing we could do. The system
had beaten us.
We went to bed that night with heavy hearts. It had
been a tough afternoon and we were shattered. Tomorrow would be a better day. Iguassu
Falls was to have been the highlight of our trip after the wedding.
Friday July 10th
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| Our rather sad group trying to make he most of not having been able to board our plane to Iguassu Falls, one of the natural wonders of the world. |
We had a great, all you can eat breakfast a la Hilton
Hotels, which was a good start. We had pre-booked two taxis to take us over to
the car rental agency, which went off flawlessly. The rental company already
had all my info on file, so that was a breeze, and we even managed sign up
Alessandro as a secondary driver, using only his digital passport. The guy who
brought our car to us performed a minor miracle by getting all of our luggage
into a rather miniscule seven seater van. It had seven seats but virtually no
luggage room. Esther took the back row along with a mountain of suitcases and
bags. It was a tight fit.
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| Our Air BnB was a close to the beach as one could get - a magnificent view |
We checked in to our AirBnB, took a quick visit to a
local mini supermarket and then had a bite to eat before taking a nap.
Yesterday’s excitement had taken its toll and we were all pretty whacked.
After a long nap we took a late afternoon walk to the
beach. Our accommodation is literally as close as one can get to the beach. We
couldn’t believe how much traffic there was on the main beachfront road. The
motorbikes and scooters were zipping in and out at all times. Just crossing the
road was a bit of an adventure. Santos is quite a big city with a busy
container port and a large beach with very powdery white sand. We stuck our
toes in the water and it was warmer than anticipated.
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| This was where one goes on a Friday evening to hang out with friends and have some fun. |
Tomorrow we would rent bikes and explore the very long
waterfront by bike.
Saturday July 11th
There wasn’t much enthusiasm this morning from our
four teenagers to leap out of bed and get on with the day, so it was a slow
start. Eventually we had everyone corralled and ready to get on with the day by
about 11am.
Our first order of business was to find out where to
rent a bike. We found a spot virtually
in front of our apartment. Of course, renting a bike didn’t involve talking to a
nice Brazilian entrepreneur, taking some advice on where to go and what to see.
There was no human interaction at all. We had to download an app and do our
booking online. Well naturally if one is a foreigner, the app wouldn’t
download. We had to use Beatrice’s phone. In the course of filling out the form
one had to fill in an ID number which of course had to be a Brazilian ID number
– nothing else would work. We eventually called Alessandro who is busy
conducting the marriage of his best friend today, and he emailed over his
account details for us to book with. Sigh. Imagine what would happen if the
Brazilians put their minds to making things easy for tourists. Their economy
might explode and Brazil becomes an economic superpower like the United States.
Watch this space for more news on this exciting potential opportunity.
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| Peter, Julia, James and John at Iguassu Falls while we were digesting the disappointment of not being there too. |
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| The menu was in Portuguese and the ingredients were cooked in Brazil. Voila - A Brazilian meal. |
Whilst on my walk I saw four young guys play a
fascinating game of volleyball with a Brazilian twist. No hands were allowed. Only
feet, chests and heads. The ball control these guys exhibited was amazing.
Every now and then, the ball would go up high and one would smash it down with
his head. It was a pleasure to watch. When Sam returned from his ride, my body
clock was telling me it was tea time, so I returned to the apartment to get the
kettle boiling whilst the others lingered at the beach for a while longer.
The day ended with games in the apartment and a late
night movie for those who could stay awake.
Sunday July 12th
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| Esther and Grandad's perfect card combo to scam the boy cousins. |
We did online church with the previous week’s service
from Sammy and Elaine’s church. The preacher, Daniel Mills, always does an
amazing job and generally delivers an excellent sermon, without any reference
to notes. I don’t know how he does it.
Today was going to be a big day. Elaine and Alessandro
had not come with us as Alessandro was officiating at a wedding. They were
flying into Sao Paulo and then catching a bus from there to Santos. Julia and
her boys were having their last day in Iguassu Falls and then flying to Sao
Paulo for a 10pm arrival. Cher and I would be picking them up from the airport
in our rental van.
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| Newly minted siblings doing a team shop together. They did well. |
After lunch we were all ready for a nap. Elaine and
Alessandro were arriving by bus by around
4.30pm. The kids and I set off in the van to go and find the bus stop,
with Beatrice navigating with the help of Google Maps. It was a bit of an
ordeal as that nice lady at Google Maps, who generally seems to know her way
around, was obviously having a relaxed Sunday and wasn’t concentrating. She
kept sending us around in the same never ending circle. We had Alessandro on
the line, trying to describe where he was. We finally found that they had been in
the center of the circle we had been driving in for 20 minutes. We were all a
bit frazzled, but it was good to see them and begin to re-unite the larger
family group after a few days apart.
Once we had Elaina and Alessandro and their kids
settled into their Airbnb, Cher and I hit the road for Sao Paulo airport to
pick up Julia and boys. It was a two hour drive. Parts of Sao Paulo, can be a
bit tricky to drive in and frantic at times especially in the dark, but we
managed. We arrived a couple of hours early and went to “Bob’s Burgers” for a
romantic night out on our own at the airport.
The lady at the counter at Bob’s told us we had to order from the screen off to the side, McDonald’s style. We dutifully did so. Our order for two combo burgers came to about 120 Rials ($35) – airport prices. When we came to pay, the machine refused to accept our credit cards. We finally called the lady over. We asked if we could pay by cash – “Sorry, no”. Oh dear, our nice cozy meal together was on shaky ground. She saw our dilemma and took pity on us. “Wait”. She then proceeded to tap away on her machine, found us the same order, allowed us to pay by cash and lo and behold the price had become 78 Rials, about $25. Sometimes being helpless, and having grey hair, pays off. We sat on our nice airport food court faux leather seats and whispered sweet nothings to each other. It was a moment of peace and quiet for us after being busy and on call to others for the last 10 days. Thank you Lord for your daily provision. As it turned out, the evening was just beginning.
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| It was nice to see Elaine and Alessandro again after a few days away. |
Julia’s plane was due in at 9.35pm. Naturally it was
delayed half an hour. They finally made their way to the baggage pick up area
and there they sat for the next two hours. It turned out the carousels were all
not working and hundreds of people were stuck waiting and and additional
travelers kept coming. They finally came through at about 12.30am and we
dragged ourselves back to Santos by about 2.30am. Needless to say, everyone was
ready for bed.
Monday July 13th
We all slept in, so it was a slow morning. Elaine and
Alessandro were out for a morning walk on the beach and popped in to say hi
while we ate our breakfast.
The weather was cold and overcast, so the beach was a
non starter. We managed to locate a local bicycle repair shop nearby which was
willing to rent us some of the “more than slightly used” bikes. Santos does
have an amazingly long cycle path on the beach front, so it seemed too good an
opportunity to miss.
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| Peter's bike - a bit beyond it's best before date |
The first thing we had to get used to is that the
cycle path is really a cycling commuter path and there is a steady stream of
people zipping along at a good clip in both directions. Just like any regular
road, there is a middle line and one is expected to keep to one’s own lane.
Also, if a pause is needed for whatever reason, one cannot just stop, as would be
done in Canada. It is necessary to get right off the path otherwise someone
coming up fast behind is going to crash into you.
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| Esther enjoying the quintessential fresh coconut drink |
On our return to the bike store, we made a bit of an
effort to request a discount as some of the bikes were basically not
roadworthy. The response from the shop keeper was less than enthusiastic. He
finally relented and a minor discount was applied to the two bikes with the
most egregious issues. Considering the price we had paid, we didn’t push our
luck too far. I’m certain, that in Canada, it would have cost us $50 or more each to
rent a bike for four hours.
We had had a
very short sleep the night before, so we got home, had supper, played a quick
game of Canasta and headed for bed. Tomorrow some of us were going to the fish
market early and we needed our beauty sleep.
Tuesday July 14th
Julia and I took the rental van and picked up Elaine
and Alessandro for a visit to the Santos fish market. Alessandro loves to cook
and today’s main meal was to be fish.
I was driving and the main beach front road was very
busy. The lanes are very tight and there is a constant weaving in and out of
motorcyclists, making the driving stressful. At one point I needed to change
lanes. I did not notice a motorcyclist coming up on my right side and I nearly
knocked him off his bike. He was very angry and at the next stop drove right up
alongside and let me have it full on. Fortunately, Alessandro was able to calm
him down and all was well. Considering the way those guys weave in and out,
with barely an inch or two to spare on either side sometimes, I am guessing
this kind of thing must happen quite often.
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| The bounty of the sea was on clear display at the Santos Fish Market |
We returned home for a late breakfast before heading
out to do the local mountain cable car ride. It was a beautiful ride to the top
of the mountain overlooking Santos and it’s beautiful waterfront. It was well
worth the trip.
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| View of the Santos waterfront from the top of the cable car. |
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| Kids don't need to speak the same language when there's a pile of sand like this. |
Elaine had spent the afternoon with Alessandro at the
doctor. She has developed a bad ear infection. They gave her a shot for the
pain, two types of antibiotic and cortisone for the swelling. Alessandro had
pulled a muscle in his back and woke up this morning feeling miserable, so they
have both been under the gun health wise. They are parting ways tomorrow as we
all return to Canada, barely 10 days after getting married. This is very hard
for them, but until they can get the paperwork sorted out for Alessandro and
his girls to come to Canada, it will be a tough six to nine months. Despite
this, it feels like a good foundation has been laid for the blending of these
two families. We look forward to how the Lord will work things out for them
down the line.
Back at our apartment, Julia cooked us a huge meal of fish and shrimps, using Alessandro’s recipe. It was delicious. We probably have enough leftovers for another full meal, so will probably be having fish for breakfast tomorrow.
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| Our time at Santos was drawing to a close Our last evening was a sad but sweet time |
It was getting late and time to head home. Our time
with us all together in Santos has been too short, but we will have other
times. God is good and we count our blessings today and fully expect there to
me more as the future unfolds.
Wednesday July 15th
Today was all about getting bags packed and leaving
the apartment on time.
We had been left with a pile of leftover fish from our
meal the night before. We couldn’t bear to
throw out the leftovers, so we had fish for breakfast, something my stomach
normally wouldn’t stand for, but my Scottish genes refused to let that much
good food be disposed of.
We had arranged for the two-family groups to have one
final meal together before we all took off for Sao Paulo, a two hour drive
away, and our evening flights. Alessandro said, “I know a place”. It was one
block up from their Airbnb and turned out to be an all you can eat buffet for
about $15 a head which was a really good deal and the food was good. It’s hard
to beat local knowledge.
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| Our goodbyes were sad. We had enjoyed our time of family building together and seemed too soon to end. |
The airport in Brazil was busy. I noticed people peering intently into their cell phones and realized it was the Argentina v England soccer game in the FIFA World Cup. Argentina and Brazil are mortal enemies when it comes to soccer. It seemed that the whole airport was rooting for England. Every time a goal was scored, cries of delight or anguish, were heard across the width and breadth of the building. A deep, quiet collective sigh, took place, when the final whistle went, with Argentina winning 2-1.
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| Rob and Cher - much blessed |
It has been fun to experience all that we have in
Brazil, especially Elaine and Alessandro’s wedding. Some of it we’d rather have
left out, but when we step back it has been a wonderful opportunity and we are
thankful for it. I am guessing it won’t be our only trip to Brazil and we’ll be
back.
Here ends the saga of our Great Brazilian Adventure.


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