Monday, 5 June 2017

Moving Moments Chapter 4 - Consorting with the Chingola- ites

Moving Moments
Chapter 4 – Consorting with the Chingola-ites




14 Consort Avenue 2014 - 58 years later
L. to R. - Nev, Current Owner, Rob, Al
In 1958 Dad was the Mine Engineer at Nchanga mine in Chingola. As such he merited a more upmarket house than most of the other lower ranking miner’s houses. We moved into 14 Consort Avenue, which was a nice four bedroomed house on a corner lot with about a half-acre garden. We were surrounded on three sides by houses, but in the back was a large park which went up behind us for the rest of the block and included the 9th Street Rocks. On the one side of and behind our property were the storm water drains. These were deep and wide to move the massive flow of water when we had a regular mid-afternoon downpour. We were within earshot of the local African township and at night one could hear the African folk partying well into the night, especially on weekends, with their drums and singing.

L. to R. Dad, Alan, Mom, Rob,
Rosemary, Neville
Al and I shared a bedroom but the rest of the family could all claim their own room. Most importantly we now had indoor plumbing but we still hadn’t advanced to the point of having two washrooms, nor a two car garage. One had really made it big if one had two washrooms in those days. We had a large lounge (living room) and breezeway (family room) and a large open lawn which became mine and Al’s playgrounds. 

We all got settled into our new schools. Nev and Rose went to Chingola High School and Al and I went to Helen Waller Primary school – now called Chingola Primary School. School was a bit of a side issue at that stage for Al and I. 


Chingola High School in 2014
Still looking good. 
1958 - Hellen Waller Primary School.
2014 - Chingola Primary School












It didn’t take long for us to begin to make friends. Just over the road in one of the miner’s houses was Willie Dixon. He was our age and a real character and provided us with much fun and entertainment. One day Willie’s massive bull mastiff dog got into a fight over the road with another little dog and was all set to kill it. Dog fights were quite common as they were needed as general watchdogs and had to be able to move around and be fierce, so were not kept on a leash. Conventional wisdom was not to get into the middle of a dog fight as they could turn on you. My Dad though entered the fray. He grabbed Willie’s dog by the scruff of the neck, held him tight and then grabbed his paw and squeezed it hard eventually causing it to yelp and let go of his victim. My Dad gained heroic status in our sight for a while as a result of that.


Willie Dixon - one of
life's originals. 
Other friends we met were Richard Moskwa, whose Dad was the Mine Manager. He had a much better home, close to the golf course. Another was Mark Sturgeon whose Dad was also a big deal on the mine and of course had a nice house backing on to the golf course. Both of these guys later ended up at the same boarding school as us. Other friends were Gavin and Dennis Hartley. Gavin was about our age and Dennis a couple of years older. We all would have great and intense games of Cowboys and Indians or Cops and Robbers, which often ended in tears as inevitably someone cheated and never died when they should have and so on. Another friend was Butch Attersoll and then Paul Celliers who was to become my best friend. Al and I are still in touch with most of these guys who are now scattered across the globe.

L. to R. Al, Willie, Rob
Carefree living each day. 
The 9th Street Rocks were a little piece of heaven for boys our age. The rocks were massive granite domes which one could clamber up on and play in all of the nooks and crannies. There was a lot of tropical bush in amongst the rocks and some very tall trees with “monkey vines” creeping up them. We would clamber up the monkey vines and make our way to the tree tops where there would be a nest of foliage that we could rest on and survey our imaginary kingdoms from our lofty perches. For a bunch of little boys, 9th Street Rocks became an endless source of entertainment for us.

My Dad was not around much. He would go off to the shooting range after work and we wouldn’t see much of him. Mom was obviously very laid back as a parent and gave us pretty much free range. We would play for hours on end at 9th Street Rocks or in the storm water drain tunnels in our neighborhood.  We would go into the underground  tunnels exploring them to see what treasures had been washed in there. We loved to practice throwing our knives and peg them into trees. We had large blue headed lizards about six to nine inches long which would sit on the sides of trees in our gardens. We would hurl our knives at them and see if we could peg them to the tree. Another game we played with our knives was “chicken”. We had to stand opposite each other with our feet together and throw the knife pegging it into the ground no more than 12 inches from one’s opponent’s feet. They would then have to move their foot to that point. The game was over when one’s opponent fell over as their legs were so wide they could not stand up. Another game which wouldn’t go down so well these days was when he had “fly catty” fights. A fly catty was a catapult made out of  a wire frame and strung with elastic bands. They fired sharp little metal staples. We would go into our bedroom, turn the beds on their sides and make two forts behind which the opposing teams would take shelter from the storm of metal staples that we fired at one another. It is a wonder that none of us lost an eye.

Rob and Al. School was a
distraction from the real
business of life. 
Jack’s Rock was another very special spot. It was two to three miles away in the bush. We’d have to ride our bikes there. They were similar to 9th Street Rocks except much bigger and a bit spookier as they were very quiet stuck out in the bush the way they were. Here we were literally miles away from supervision of any kind and of course the sky was the limit. Once we played a live version of Cowboys and Indians with pellet guns. We would run around taking pot shots at one another. The good thing about this kind of Cowboys and Indians, was that there was no disputing when one had been “killed” or not. Once again, miraculously there were no real injuries to speak of.

L. to R. Fifi, Mitzi
We had two dogs. The one was Mitzi our little dachshund who was a sweet little thing. We also had Fifi who was my dog. She was the ugliest hound you could ever imagine. She was a small dog of no identifiable provenance. She was brindled in color, had large bulbous eyes, a flattened face and her bottom row of teeth jutted out further than the top one. She had a mean streak and would growl and snarl when things weren’t going her way. Mitzi and Fifi would love to jump up onto our beds in the morning and find their way under the bedsheets to the furthest reaches of the bed where they would settle down for a snooze. This didn’t seem to faze my Mom at all. Like many Dachshund’s Mitzi eventually developed a paralysis in her two back legs. No problem – we rigged up a little cart for her to rest her back legs on while she towed her back half behind her. She was able to get around quite well with this early version “stretch limo”. Fifi and I were great buddies and I loved her dearly. She eventually got pregnant and had a litter, some of which we kept. In those days because most dogs roamed free, there wasn’t much control over who became the father of the litter. Once the female came on heat, there would be a sad looking troop of eager males lined up in our yard, so it was necessary to keep the female indoors for a while. Clearly Fifi had managed to sneak out and find a fairly handsome male as her puppies definitely outshone her in the looks department.
Fifi was my
pinup girl. 

Mom had two household helpers working for her at that time, namely Ronald and his wife Luzina from Malawi. Ronald was in charge of the housework and kitchen and I seem to remember Luzina did laundry and ironing. Fred, also from Malawi, was our gardener. Malawians had a reputation for being hard working and good natured so they traditionally got to do this kind of work. I remember once that we kept a pet chameleon on the window sill of our kitchen. It would patrol the window sill and eliminate any flies within spitting distance. It’s amazing that Ronald tolerated this, because most Africans were very superstitious about chameleons. We would love to hold a chameleon behind our backs, and then approach any unsuspecting African and suddenly produce it, whereupon our poor victim would let out a yelp and take off at a rapid rate of knots. Boys will be boys I suppose.

Rose I guess was a typical teenage girl and we as her little brothers were dear to her, but she was not to be crossed lightly. One day Alan sneaked into her room, locked her door and went through her cupboards and drawers eventually finding a chocolate bar she had been keeping for a special occasion. The bedrooms in our houses in those days had a window above the door to allow air flow. When Rose realized she was locked out of her room she stood on a chair and peeked in through the window above the door to see Alan munching his way through her chocolate bar and grinning up at her. Well when Al finally opened the door, Rose was waiting. She slapped him around in no uncertain terms and I suspect around about then Al was regretting his little clandestine escapade.

Rose looking glamorous
Rose and Dad had a kind of a love hate relationship. They both had stubborn streaks so the battles could be epic. Dad would object to Rose’s taste in music and when she wasn’t around he would hide her records with dire warnings to us if we told her where they were hidden. If a boy turned up to visit Rose, my Dad would send him home if he wasn’t wearing a tie. One such boy was Billy Dale who was rather unceremonially sent on his way one evening with the advice “not to visit my daughter improperly dressed”. Things have certainly moved on since my Dad made this his “line in the sand” for the boys. A few years later Billy Dale, who had joined the police force, took his revenge on Al and I. He nabbed us riding our bikes without lights after hours. We were given a stern warning and sent packing. It wasn’t all friction with Rose and Dad. Rose used to delight in cutting Dad’s toenails which Dad enjoyed. There was also one memorable occasion when Dad had had a bit too much sun on his back and his skin was peeling off in big strips. He was lying face down on his bed while Rose peeled the dried skin off his back. She was then dropping the skin on the floor and Mitzi was eagerly snapping it up. Who needs TV when one has this kind of entertainment?

Speaking of entertainment, Dad would sit for hours at the piano playing all of his war time golden oldies. Mom from wherever she was in the house, would yodel away at the top of her voice accompanying him. Sometimes they would have a party and let their hair down and play some risqué games. These would be along the lines of pass the orange by holding it under one’s chin and having to nuzzle up to the next person in line to receive it. They would attach two pennies together on a length of string and the race would be on for each team to move the pennies to the end of the line by passing the string through each person’s clothes and so on down the line. Man it’s amazing they allowed us to stay up late to watch them play these adult games.

Dad was a talented pianist. Naturally he wanted Al and I to follow in his footsteps so we were signed up for weekly lessons. It didn’t take long for the shine to go off of this idea as we settled down into the routine of learning scales, starting to read music and a daily practice schedule. We would have much rather spent our afternoons after school playing than performing. Eventually our complaining wore Mom and Dad down and they agreed that we could stop piano lessons, but it would mean we had to give up TV. This was a serious concession on our part. TV had recently been introduced in Northern Rhodesia and although we didn’t have a TV ourselves we loved to visit friend’s houses to watch.

TV was newly introduced into Northern Rhodesia and a great novelty of course. We would go around to Butch Attersoll’s house as a family to watch TV for the evening. There was only one channel so no squabbling about who wanted to watch what. The favorite game of the evening while the ads were on was to see who could guess which product was being advertised first. This would keep us going all evening. It didn’t take much to keep us happy in those days. I can’t remember when we first got our own TV. I think Mom and Dad had to watch their pennies quite carefully in those days and Mom would often make clothes for Al and I. We’d have matching shorts and brightly colored shirts. As little boys we were quite happy with that. Mom wasn’t one to worry too much about making sure our clothing was colour coded correctly. In fact I think the first time I discovered this concept was many years later when I started dating Cheryl who helped bring me up to speed on such matters.

Art has never been
my forte
Writing was more my  style.
I used to win prizes for my handwriting.
Hard to believe these days. 
I was quite sickly as a child and was often down with a dose of tonsillitis. My Mom tried all manner of home remedies on me, but my complaint didn’t yield much improvement. Although I enjoyed school I definitely never liked going to school on a Monday morning, so it was quite often that tonsillitis would mysteriously strike me on a Monday morning, of course requiring a down day at home. These sick bed days perhaps lead me to my love of reading, as I would lie on my bed and devour books. Eventually the tonsils got the chop and my health did in fact have quite a dramatic improvement. Medicine in those days was a bit more rough and ready. I had my appendix out at one point and still sport a six inch scar across my stomach. Visits to the dentist would have been quite amusing if they weren’t so painful to be part of. Dr. Findlay hadn’t heard of anesthetic apparently and he had one of those new fancy drills which he pumped with his foot until it built up sufficient speed. If he got tired, well the drill just went slower.

Nev on left with his Scout Jamboree troupe
in UK, 1957
Nev - ready to take
on the world. 
One of my memories at 14 Consort Avenue was of saying goodbye to Nev when he was heading off to university. He showed me where he had stashed all of his money in a roll in a golf ball sleeve. He was driving his little yellow Anglia down to Johannesburg where he was signed up to do mining engineering at the University of the Witwatersrand. I remember being sad at seeing him go, but Nev was 11 years older than me and his life was so far removed from mine that it didn’t seem to impact me much at the time. It was only much later in life that I learnt that Nev had been a real superstar at school, excelling in sport, academics and boy scouts. Now if I’d known that I’m sure that I could have turned that information to my advantage on the playground. As it turned out, that wasn’t to be the last of Nev living at home

Dad continued to do well at his shooting and every now and then he would participate in a big “shoot”, sometimes in Southern Rhodesia or South Africa. In 1960 he was selected to be on the Northern Rhodesian team which was competing at Bisley, the mecca of target shooters, in Britain. He and Mom decided to make the most of it and also do some touring whilst over there. They were going to be away from home for months. They decided to take Rose with them as Rose had stalled out at school and they thought it would broaden her horizons. Nev was starting university at Wits (Universtiy of Witwatersrand) that year. But what to do with Alan and Rob? No problem. We’ll ship them off to a boarding school in the bush for a couple of terms.

And so it was that Al, aged nine and I aged seven, found ourselves one day being downheartedly dropped off by Mom and Dad at Eureka school in the bush near Kalomo a very small farming town, two or three hundred miles from home. Eureka was a mission school being run by the Brethren. It was the beginning of a school year and we found ourselves the new boys on the block. Most of the other kids had been at the school for a while. It didn’t take long before two older boys approached us and asked us if we were homesick. Well of course we were! “We are too and we are running away from school tomorrow. Would you like to come with us?” Well of course we would!. And so, it was that the next day whilst playing soccer on the field we accidentally kicked the ball into the bush. We went after it and never came back. The school was 3 – 5 miles out in the bush from the one horse stop of Kalomo. We knew the general direction and headed that way through the bush. Our plan was to make it into town unspotted and then wait for the daily train that came by at which point we would hop on and make our way home to our parents who would undoubtedly be delighted to see us. We spent most of the afternoon walking into town, keeping out of sight of the main road. Once there we went to the main park in the middle of town and hid out in a massive tree to wait for the train. It began to drizzle and we were getting cold and hungry. One of the other boys had the bright idea that he knew some people in the town who would give us a cup of tea while we waited for the train. We duly presented ourselves at their doorstep and of course were invited in. No sooner had we settled down for our tea than lo and behold the school principal, Mr. Shoemaker just turned up to collect us out of the blue. We’d been double crossed by our hosts. The principal took us back to his office. By then it was dark. He left Al and I outside while he took the other two older boys into his office. It wasn’t long before we heard the swishing of his cane and the two boys shot out of his office rubbing their behinds vigorously. They disappeared into the darkness and we were ushered inside, knees knocking. With his office in darkness, save one light on his desk, Mr Shoemaker gave us a stern talking to whilst idly swishing his cane in his hands. He asked if we would promise never to do such a thing again. Without hesitation we promised profusely. We weren’t going to beg for mercy, but we’d happily co-operate if he was showing signs of weakness. He put his cane down and shooed us out. He’d accomplished his mission of thoroughly terrifying us into future compliance and model behavior.

We spent two happy terms at Eureka school. The missionaries ruled the place with an iron rod, but life was good as we enjoyed simple life in the bush. There was no indoor plumbing in my dorm. At night we had a bucket which we could use as needed. In the morning someone had the job of carting the steaming bucket out and dumping it. For more serious washroom endeavors there was a four up, side by side long drop half way down the side of the soccer field. For some reason these long drops were like a ball magnet and we often found ourselves having to fish a soccer or tennis ball out of the contents of the long drop. Boys are not easily put off their ball games.

My Bible. It had a sweet incense aroma.
I would love to sniff it and enjoy God's presence. 
A few years back, Al, Nev and I visited Eureka, 55 years later for old times’ sake. Nev, who had never visited the place in the early days was incensed that Mom and Dad had so casually dropped us down there in the middle of the bush at such a tender age. Having said that, my memories of the place were happy ones. The missionaries did a good job on me. In those two terms I learnt the story of the bible from top to bottom. I loved to read all the biblical names. My bible, which of course was the King James Version with all the Thees and Thous, was very precious to me. It was gold trimmed on the outside and I am certain that the printers used to add a scent to them because I used to love smelling the pages of my bible. I am certain, that at that young age, at Eureka, God touched my life in a meaningful way for the first time. I knew what I was being told about Him was true and I remember the sweet feeling I used to experience when hearing about Him and His love for me.

Mom and Dad were still overseas when we had our first term break from Eureka. Al and I were put on the train from Kalomo down through Rhodesia, then Botswana and into South Africa. Auntie Florrie in Benoni, had been asked to take us in for the holidays. Auntie Florrie was a sister of Tickey, my Dad’s Mom who had passed away by then. We stayed in her one bedroomed apartment at 15 Melrye Court in Benoni. Each night one of us would take it in turns to sleep in the spare bed in her room and the other one would sleep on the hard as rock divan in her living room. The one sleeping in with her was treated each night to different stories from the family history as we were dozing off. This was such a treat. Auntie Florrie’s husband had died many years earlier and so had her son. We were her stand in grandchildren and we feasted off of each other’s love. Auntie Florrie had an awful, large, open abscess on her back which would never heal and she suffered a lot with it. 

L. to R. Florrie, Tickie, Gwen
looking glamorous in their
beach-ware. 
Life at 15 Melrose had a host of different characters who all made life interesting. Florrie’s older sister Gwen lived upstairs in a different apartment.  Then another sister Auntie Evie would turn up from time to time with Uncle Jack in tow. Uncle Jack had the largest ears I had ever seen but he was as deaf as a coot. Mrs. Vlok, a friend from upstairs was a daily visitor, always with a cheerful smile and a joke to share. Al and I would explore the inner workings of the apartment building and Jack was the African man who seemed to do most of the work around the place. He would huff and puff and grump at us, disturbing his peace, but tolerated us. There were four movie houses in Benoni, all within walking distance and Al and I would know which movies were on at all times as this was our main source of outside entertainment.

Eventually Mom and Dad returned from their travels and it was time to leave Eureka and return to daily life in Chingola. Things had changed forever though. Nev was at university. Rose, having struggled academically at school, had realized whilst in England that what she really wanted to do in life was to become a nurse. She had discovered her passion and Mom and Dad had decided to leave her in UK in the care of  Mom's cousin, Yvonne Bashham while she commenced her nursing training. Little did Rose know it, but this was the start of a much bigger lifelong adventure for her, but more about that later. So, suddenly two of the chicks had flown the coop and we were down to four from six. Never again would we all live under one roof again. It had all come up so quickly.

L. to R. Al, Mitzi, Rob 

As it happens, life carried on. When I was around nine or so, I was once again sick and came home from school with a nasty cough. We were due to have our school soccer practice that afternoon but Mom told me that I couldn’t play as I was too sick. I rebelled as I had been looking forward to playing. I said “well if I can’t go, then neither can Alan”, whereupon I stormed into my shared room with Al, slammed the door and locked it, thereby preventing Al from coming to get his soccer gear. This state of affairs went from bad to worse pretty quickly. My stubbornness was only exceeded by Mom’s determination to get me to open the door. Eventually my Dad was called from the office and he arrived with a great deal of dire threats, which did nothing other than dig me deeper into my intransigence. Eventually my Dad, who was not going to be defied indefinitely, broke the door down and grabbed me and gave me a good whack or two. In my memory this is the only time my Dad ever hit me and I have to admit that I deserved it. Alan was sent off to soccer and I was banished to my bedroom. Well by then I was in a rage and I decided I was really going to make Mom and Dad pay for their misdeeds to me. I was going to run away from home and then they would be sorry. So without any more fuss I climbed out of the bedroom window and headed for the big roundabout on the edge of town from where I planned to hitch a ride to the next big town, Kitwe. Once I was there I’d worry about what would happen next. When I got to the roundabout I was beginning to have some regrets. I decided to skip the hitch-hiking and hide in the nearby quarry, where we used to play occasionally and await developments. I noticed police cars going up and down but didn’t reveal my hideaway. Eventually at the end of the afternoon the sun was going down and I saw my Dad cruising in the car, close to the quarry. He was clearly looking for me. I finally decided the game was up and made my presence known and walked up to the car. My Dad looked at me sternly and said “Your Mother would like you to come home”. This was a masterful stroke on his part as it provided me with a face saving measure. I could climb down from my pride to help Mom feel better. When we got home, Mom gave me a big hug and that’s the last time I ever heard that little mischief mentioned.

14 Consort Avenue
I ran away from home out of the
window 2nd from the right 
Our family’s lives were moving on. Nev and Rose were spreading out across the globe as their lives moved on. Events in Southern Africa were picking up the pace too. Harold MacMillan, the British prime minister at the time spoke about the “Winds of Change” that were blowing in Africa. We still had a few idyllic years left, but their days were numbered. 

Friday, 5 May 2017

Moving Moments Chapter 3 - Pioneering in the Promised Land

Moving Moments
Chapter 3 – Pioneering in the Promised Land


Northern Rhodesian Flag 1939 - 1953
A Fish Eagle atop the Victoria Falls, offsets the British Union Jack
Dad landed a job with Fraser and Chalmers, an engineering company, in Kitwe, Northern Rhodesia in 1955. Kitwe was part of a string of five or six copper mines on the Copperbelt in the north of the country bordering what was then known as the Belgian Congo. The Congo shared the copper with Northern Rhodesia as they had a string of copper mines just over the border on their side. These copper mines have always formed the backbone of Northern Rhodesia’s (now Zambia) economy.


Dad left for Kitwe early in 1955 with the plan that Mom would follow with the rest of the family at the end of the school year. A company house was being built for us in Shakespeare Drive and it wasn’t long before we were all getting used to our new abode. We soon met George and Kaye Jenkinson and their five kids in the same street as us. George was a local GP in town. What most got our attention was that they were obviously well to do, as they had their own swimming pool. Many a good time was had in that pool and the Jenkinson’s became lifelong friends to Mom and Dad.

Nev and Rose attended Frederick Knapp school in 1956, and Alan attended the primary school. I made my debut into the first intake of Kindergarten at Frederick Knapp in 1957 where my academic prowess was marked by a Recitation of “Nursery Rhymes come to Tea” at the end of the year at the Kindergarten Concert. Refreshingly the program began with a Hymn Sing by the entire Infant School - so sad that those days are gone. In 1957 Nev and Rose transferred to the brand new Kitwe High School, not far from our house in Shakespeare Drive.

1957 Frederick Knapp KG Concert
Halfway through 1957 Dad left Fraser and Chalmers and found a job at Kansanshi mine about 150 miles North West of Kitwe. It was pretty remote and primitive with no schools. We had to vacate the nice new house in Shakespeare Drive, so Mom and Dad decided to buy their own property at Itimpi which was a collection of 5 – 10 acre small holdings carved out of virgin bush about 15 kilometres north of Kitwe. Dad would commute to and from Kansanshi on the weekends.

I’m guessing Mom and Dad didn’t have much money at the time because conditions at Itimpi were basic to say the least. Neville describes our situation as follows; “our home was made out of wattle and daub. It had two bedrooms. Rose and Alan slept in one, Nev in a hut separate from the main house and I shared with Mom and Dad. There was no glass in the windows, only screens, and no electricity. Water was pumped by hand from a well into a storage tank at the top of an anthill – anthills were 10 – 12 feet high. Our toilet was a long drop/outhouse and our stove was wood burning and for our lighting we used Tilley paraffin lamps” It was a bit of a come down from the delights of civilization just down the road in Kitwe. The roof leaked prodigiously and every time it rained, which was often, we would run around putting out pots and pans to collect the drips.

Mom, Pioneer at Large
Mom obviously had a bit of a pioneer spirit in her because she seemed to take all of these inconveniences in her stride. It wasn’t long before we had a massive vegetable garden going in the back yard which was her pride and joy. I guess we were living off of the land. Our time at Itimpi was our real introduction to the joys and challenges of life in the colonies. Life was simple but opportunities abounded for improvement.

Itimpi House - no glass windows, leaks galore and
none of the mod cons. 
Life at Itimpi was excitement filled for us all as there was so much to discover and enjoy. We were pretty close to nature so more often than we’d have liked nature was in our face. Our dachshund dog Mitzi buried a bone under Alan’s pillow one day and Alan woke up that night screaming with ants swarming him in his hair in search of the bone. There were regular ants, which were small and friendly. But along with that were two other types of more aggressive ones, namely Red ants and Matabele ants. Red ants, a bit like a termite, gave a nasty nip and we learnt to avoid them. Al and I decided to see how Mitzi dealt with them by dropping her into a swarm of them once. Neither Mitzi nor Mom was terribly impressed with our experiment. Matabele ants were about an inch long and had massive pincers. They would march in double file and it wasn’t much fun being bitten. When we stomped on them they emitted an awful stench. We stopped them entering the house by spreading ash in the doorways.

The young ones heading out for school
15 year old Nev prided himself on being the family protector and it was his job to shoot snakes with his pellet gun. Mom had a puff adder sitting under her chair one night. No one could figure out why Mitzi was agitating. Puff adders are highly venomous, but very slow to move, so they will stake their claim to a spot and not give it up easily. Luckily Mom spotted the snake, thanks to Mitzi, before the snake snagged her. There are not too many harmless snakes in Africa. Perhaps Itimpi is where I developed my lifelong aversion to snakes of any kind. To this day, even in friendly snake Canada, my skin crawls just at the thought of any kind of these reptiles.  

The Intepid Family
L to R: Mom, Alan, Rose, Rob, Nev
Stories abound of life at Itimpi. This is where we had our first portable record player. It was one of those wind up ones which had a brass needle. When the needle got blunt you pulled it out and replace it with a new one. The needles came in tins of fifty. When the music started to wane one would leap up and rewind the player vigorously until the music sounded normal again. There was the time Graham Douglas peed in our well. For quite a while we had to hold our noses and hope for the best when tasting the best vintage water that Itimpi could offer.

I don’t have too many recollections of Rose at this time. I seem to remember one of Nev’s scouting buddies, Peter Taylor, who lived just down the road from us at Itimpi had a crush on her. I’m not sure if the feeling was mutual. Once Al and I were playing by the railway line, not too far from Peter Taylor’s house. We decided it would be interesting to see what would happen if we put a rock on the line and see how the train would cope with that. For days after that I felt terribly guilty and kept listening out for news of a derailed locomotive near our house. Nothing ever came of it so we were spared having to admit to being responsible.

Al and I would delight in watching one of the African helpers slaughter a chicken for our supper. He would put his foot on its neck and then deftly chop it’s head off with an axe. The real fun was when he lifted his foot and the chicken would run around headless for a few seconds until the blood had finish spurting out. Mom and Dad bought two piglets, which were aptly called Kan and Sanshi. When they got bigger Al and I would have great fun riding them.

The Family in front of the new house
We only lived in it for a short while. 
After a while Mom and Dad built a brand new home on the plot. It had all the mod cons. We even had electricity and an indoor toilet. I remember sleeping on the floor of the new house on a mattress before we moved in. Al and I would hear the big hairy tarantulas, which were about three inches in diameter, scurrying across the floor. This totally gave me the creeps and once again I could probably trace my lifelong aversion to spiders to moments like these.

During these times, while Dad was working at Kansanshi, he would take Al and I up there in his Land Rover. I remember Dad sitting me on his lap the one time and letting me steer the vehicle while we hurtled down the dirt road. I guess that would be frowned on these days, but in those days we were indestructible. Life was good and adventure was around every corner. 

Native copper found at
Mufulira mine
Bill Knott, a friend of Nev’s, a few years later was working on a construction site on the Kansanshi road when he spotted a snake, a boomslang, going down a hole. Boomslang’s are pretty poisonous. Bill had heard that once a snake is heading into a hole it cannot turn around in the hole and come out again. With this fact firmly in mind, he grabbed the boomslang’s disappearing tail at which point the snake’s head promptly appeared and spat Bill in the eyes. This could have blinded him but a quick wash out with milk saved his bacon. So much for that urban legend.


All good things must come to an end. The mine at Kansanshi flooded, rendering it inoperable. This left Dad looking for a job again. Fortunately there was a need for an engineer at Nchanga mine in a town called Chingola, about 45 kilometres from Itimpi. We had lived in our new house, not more than about six weeks and the decision was made to move to the mine house provided by the mining company, Anglo American. The Itimpi plot was sold and we closed that chapter of our lives where we had lived pretty wild and free. Ahhh, those were the days. I was about five years old and the next chapter of our adventure was about to unfold. 

Tuesday, 25 April 2017

Moving Moments Chapter 2 - South Africa Early Days



Moving Moments 

Chapter 2 – Rooting around the Relatives

Edith with baby Daphne
James with baby
brother Doug
To a greater or lesser extent we are all influenced by our ancestral roots. Both my Mom (born: Daphne Ada King) and my Dad (Douglas Wedderburn Cornish) had predecessors going back a long way to the 1820 Settlers in South Africa and also had English and Scottish roots.

Doug, as my Dad was known, was born on December 19th, 1909, in Springs, South Africa, six years after the Boer War ended in South Africa and five years ahead of the First World War or Great War as it was described in those days. His father was John Cornish who was born in Scotland in 1871.

Doug’s mother was Mabel (Tickey) King who had ancestry going back to the 1820 Settlers. They had arrived after the Napoleonic Wars to settle an area in the Eastern Cape and provide a bulwark against the Xhosa tribe who were given to regular cattle raids against their white settler neighbors. We surmise that John came to South Africa after the Boer War when presumably opportunities were opening up. John was a bit of an entrepreneur and owned a dairy at one point in Springs called the Cornish Dairy and the road leading up to it is still called Cornish Road to this day.

Springs was 40 kms east of Johannesburg and was part of a long string of gold mines stretching along the length of the Witwatersrand Ridge which stretched east and west of Johannesburg. The Witwatersrand Ridge is where the gold reef made it’s way to the surface and was discovered in Johannesburg in 1886. The Witwatersand Basin holds the world's largest known gold reserves and has produced over 1.5 billion ounces (over 40,000 metric tons), which represents about 50% of all the gold ever mined on earth.

Doug was one of four brothers James, Doug, Maurice and Ernest. The boy’s world was changed forever in 1923 when their Dad, John who had got into financial trouble, went up into the mine dumps and shot himself. My Dad was fourteen years old and his childhood officially ended at that stage as he was forced to work on the farm to help make ends meet. The boy’s Mom, Tickey, decided to stay on the farm which she ran the farm and taught piano lessons, including teaching my Dad to play, so much so that he was able to earn some income playing at gigs on the weekend.

Surviving Brothers and Wives
Maurice/Mary, Ernest/Bertha, Doug/Daphne
Back Row: Maurice, Ernest, Tickey, Bertha, Doug
Front Row: Daphne, Rosemary, Neville, Mary
There are some apocryphal stories told of the four boys growing up. My favorite was that of James who had a very bad temper and of course the three younger boys loved to tease him. James had been left in charge of the younger three and was serving spaghetti to them. He was being teased mercilessly and was in a raging fury. His dishing up consisted of “one for Doug and one for the wall” at which point he hurled a spoonful of spaghetti against the dining room wall and so on down the line of brothers. I remember my Dad and Maurice and Ernest recounting this story with great glee, not for a minute having any sympathy for the tormented James. Sadly James died early on in life. He had been pursuing a lady who had spurned his advances and there is some uncertainty as to whether he committed suicide or died after an electrical accident at work. Unfortunately our family records can’t verify which of these intriguing options is the true one.

In 1926 at around age 16 or 17 Doug signed up as an apprentice fitter and turner, which was good work in those days when mining was booming. He qualified in 1931 at the height of the Depression. Each week he would ride his bicycle to Johannesburg and back, calling in at the various mines looking for work. From 1931 to 1939 when he married my Mom he worked at a variety of mines with evocative sounding names such as Sub Nigel, Swaartwater, Vlakfontein and Rietfontein Cons. During this time he also joined the Transvaal Scottish Regiment as a bagpipe player where he became a sergeant major.

Daph ready to
rock 'n roll
Daph, as my Mom was known, was born in Boksburg on April 26th, 1917. She was seven and a half years younger than my Dad, but fate had them earmarked for each other. As it turns out they didn’t have to look to far to find each other. Read on. 

Daph’s father was Cyril King from a long line of 1820 Settlers. He was married to Ethel (nee Hunt) King whose parents had come to South Africa from Britain. Cyril was a farmer, an excellent tennis player and was the South African 440 yard champion at one point and it’s speculated he might have held the record at that time. Cyril and Ethel had two children, Daphne and then her younger brother Alan. 

Unfortunately Cyril had a wandering eye which settled on his housekeeper, a lady with last name Joubert. When Ethel found out about this she was devastated, wrote a farewell letter to Daphne and Alan and then shot herself. Cyril, apparently undaunted, then married the housekeeper Joubert, leaving 13 year old Daphne and Alan in her care. This cannot have been an easy thing for two impressionable youngsters. Daphne was shipped off to a boarding school for girls in Pretoria, leaving Alan in the hands of the happy couple. Cyril wrote a letter to Daphne complaining that Alan was proving difficult and in good South African tradition he was shipped off to a boarding school in Potchefstroom.

I haven’t mentioned that Cyril had a sister named Mabel King. Her nickname was Tickey. Is this ringing any bells? That’s right Cyril, Daphne’s dad and Tickey, Doug’s mom, were siblings, making Daphne and Doug first cousins. It seems that when all of this tragedy struck, Doug, 21 became quite protective of Daphne who was a tender 13 years old at the time. My Mom told me that at that time my Dad had said that when she got older he was going to marry her. She obviously had her share of admirers as evidenced by this rather charming letter from a distant admirer when she was 15. 



The family eventually decided that the relationship with Doug wasn’t healthy and it needed to end, so at that point Daphne was sent off to live with relatives in England in 1933.


Daphne in her prime.
Isn't she gorgeous?


Mom, was very happy in Britain. She found a place where she was loved and made some lifelong friends. She finished school, did a beauty therapy and a secretarial course. She also met a young man who she fell for in a big way and it is likely would have married him except at that point the fates intervened in the form of her Dad dying in 1938 necessitating her return to South Africa for the funeral.

Doug and Daph,
the happy couple
The rest is history. She and my Dad re-connected, and they were married a year later on April 15th, 1939. The boyfriend in England was forgotten, which is a good thing because if he hadn’t been I wouldn’t be telling this tale. 


Doug, Neville, Daphne
On January 27th, 1941 my brother Neville was born. My Mom had a difficult delivery and my Dad was notified he might have to choose between her or the baby. I wonder if my Mom was ever consulted on that decision? My goodness, times have changed! Thankfully both Mom and Nev survived. Doug was called up to war at the end of 1941, leaving my Mom pregnant with Rosemary who was born on May 25th, 1942. 

Rosemary,, a sweet smile
but a tough cookie indeed!
My Dad had been shipped with the Transvaal Scottish Regiment to Palestine, Syria and Lebanon where his engineering unit built a tunnel which still stands today. He really excelled himself at letter writing to my Mom and demonstrated a meticulous streak by numbering each one consecutively, making it up to at least letter number 66. He must have burnt himself out with this effort as in all my years away from home at boarding school and university I received the grand total of one letter from my Dad. In fairness to him, the letter writing and keeping the family connected role fell to my Mom.

Doug returned from the war at the end of 1943 to meet 18 month old Rosemary for the first time.  Mom had been living with Dad’s mom Tickey. In 1945 Doug and family moved to Rietfontein Cons mine as an engineer. It was here that they bought “Daisy Bell” a dairy cow. Neville claims that after imbibing all of the cream, butter and milk coming off of Daisy Bell, he has suffered from an overweight problem ever since. It was here that we first meet Ronald. Ronald was a trainee house-helper from Nyasaland (modern day Malawi). One of his jobs was to milk Daisy Bell. Neville remembers Ronald taking him to the circus where they watched a performing black pig. Neville also remembers my Dad shaving off all of his hair because Nev kept snipping at it with scissors. My Dad was an “ all or nothing ” kind of a guy and I guess Nev snipped his hair once too often for my Dad’s liking. Neville also remembers the toilet was an outside one, commonly called a “longdrop”. He also remembers falling out of the car one day when my Dad jammed on the brakes too hard. I guess he was quite streamlined having no hair and all. Anyway he survived, as kids did in those days and all’s well that ends well.


Doug, Rosemary,
Neville and Daphne
hanging loose at the beach
 In 1947 Dad was transferred to South Roodepoort mine as Mine Engineer which I gather was quite a good job. His company car was a bicycle. He wore clips on his legs to prevent the bike chain from snagging his trousers. He used to come home for lunch every day, after which he would lie down for a power nap with a newspaper over his head. I must note that this has become an important family tradition, which I now emulate and I’m training my grandchildren to do the same, with some success. I’ve discovered that a hat, book or pillow all do much the same job of blocking out  the light.

Rob and grandson James learning
the art of the power nap
On May 14th, 1950 Alan was born. For some reason which seems unfathomable these days, it was necessary to send Neville, aged 8, to a Catholic boarding school at Marist Brothers in Johannesburg so that he would not be present while Alan was born at home. Neville happened to find out he had a brother when he bumped into one of the school Brothers who cheerfully announced “Cornish, you have a brother”. No muss no fuss. I wonder at what stage Nev found out the baby’s name? For some obscure reason it seemed fine for Rosemary to stay at home for the birth of the baby. Actually in fairness to my Mom and Dad, the mindset of the day was that boarding school was a good place for a young man to form a strong character and learn how to be a man. It seems to have worked in Nev’s case because he’s definitely a man who goes at life with great vim and vigor.
The happy family re-united
in school holidays
Rob, cute and 
cuddly then too!
On March 22nd 1952 I was born in South Roodepoort. Neville, still banished at boarding school, has no recollection of this news ever being communicated to him. He probably just discovered an extra addition to the family when he got home for his next school holiday.

Rose’s distinguishing act in South Roodepoort was to run away from the convent where she wasn’t enjoying the nuns. One day, at age 6 she just decided that she was no longer going to the convent where the nuns weren't to her liking, so she took herself off to the next school along and went to school with a friend who took her to her classroom. The teacher was a bit puzzled as to the new addition and eventually after an “orange alert” going out from the convent, the police and parents managed to figure out what had happened. Needless to say, Mom and Dad moved her to another school. Nev says she is the youngest person ever to be expelled from her school. She was in grade 1. As her photo indicates she has a sweet smile, but there is a tough cookie underlying that sweet exterior!

Ronald had moved with Mom and Dad to South Roodepoort. It was here that July (Dhluwayo) first makes an appearance in our family story where he joined the family enterprise as a “gardener”. July was to be a member of our extended family until his death in the 1990s. July was sixteen or seventeen and was fresh from the Rhodesian bush, off to the big city in South Africa to make it big. At that stage Ronald was probably working in the house and July started off at the bottom weeding and trimming. He would work his way up and into the hearts of our family over time.

Rob, Mom, Poetsie, Neville,
Rosemary and Alan

Over the years my Mom primarily had three “servants” working for her, not all at the same time. They were Ronald, July and Fred. Ronald and Fred hailed from Nyasaland (current day Malawi) and July from Southern Rhodesia (current day Zimbabwe). They were part of the migrant labor phenomenon in Southern Africa, whereby mainly men would come from a variety of countries to find work on the mines in industry or in the homes of white folks. It was common for them to work for periods of time, saving money and sending it home to their wives and families. All of them came to my Mom fresh out of the bush as it were and needed to be trained from scratch. Ronald and July ultimately both worked in the house, cooking, cleaning and doing laundry. Fred was relatively uneducated and remained a “gardener”. The relationship between master and servant was quite paternalistic but worked for all parties as each party derived benefit. In many households the longstanding servants became de facto members of the extended family, with the employer assuming an informal responsibility to help with schooling for the servant’s children, clothing, health issues and so on. In my Mom’s case, long after Ronald, July and Fred ceased to be employed by her, she and they maintained a lifelong correspondence. The relationship had grown way beyond master and servant to one of mutual caring and affection.

Dad sporting his
Indiana Jones look
Dad with "some" of his
shooting awards
My Dad had developed an interest in long range target shooting whilst in the Transvaal Scottish. In 1952 he made the South African team and represented the country at Bisley in England. Bisley is the mecca of all serious target shooters. In South Africa someone who represented their country in a sport was known as a Springbok. In a country as sports crazy as South Africa this was a big deal. To this day I’m immensely proud of my Dad’s shooting achievements. Over time he represented South Africa, the Federation of Rhodesia and Nyasaland and Zambia where he captained the team He was also an accomplished pianist, playing mainly by ear and was often called on to play at parties and club socials.

South Roodepoort was not a happy job for my Dad. He spoke of having lots of fights with the Mine Manager. Post war Southern Africa was booming. The copper mines in Northern Rhodesian were the largest producers of copper at the time. Mom and Dad obviously turned their sights north and began to consider what the future might hold for them up in that part of the world. Little did they know, they were about to launch us into probably the most memorable twenty years of our lives. 

Monday, 17 April 2017

Moving Moments Chapter 1 - Setting the Stage

Moving Moments
Chapter 1 – Setting the Stage



Having recently retired, and being two thirds way through my first century, I realize I definitely have more to remember now than I have to look forward to. I often catch myself remembering odd snippets of my life in years gone by and I will have a quiet chuckle or reminisce at something good that Cher and I have enjoyed together. In moments like these I find myself marveling at the colorful tapestry God has woven into my life to date.


So, recognizing that I’m losing valuable brain cells every year and seizing the opportunity of more time on my hands. I have decided to Carpe the Diem and capture snapshots of my life and later my combined life with Cher. One day no doubt the children and perhaps the grandchildren will dig out this memoir and will marvel, as I do, at how life used to be back in the good old days.

When listening to a story, context is of course very important. It explains the unexplainable, makes understandable the indecipherable and helps one to realize that the world has indeed changed and continues to change at a remarkable rate.

South Africa 1940
So what did my world look like in my early formative years? I grew up in Southern Africa at a time when the Great British Empire still ruled supreme over vast areas of the world. I used to love poring over world maps as a young boy and noting how much of the world   map was colored pink or red, indicating British rule or sphere of influence. About twenty five percent of the world’s area was under the sway of the Empire on which the sun would never set. I would read stories of far flung places, explorers and valiant knights of the realm who had gone out and claimed the spoils for God, King or Queen and Country. I was filled with a great pride at being part of something so special.

                                                                                        
Southern Africa fell under two colonial powers at the time – the British and the Portuguese. The Portuguese were overseeing huge tracts of land: Angola to the west and Mozambique to the east. They had ruled these vast swathes of virgin Africa for close on 500 years. Firmly established at the foot of Africa was South Africa. It was originally settled in the mid-1600s by the Dutch as a replenishing point for their ships on the way out to their empire in Indonesia.

Since arriving in the Cape, over 150 years or so, the Dutch settlers had spread east and north and, depending on what was happening in Europe, they would from time to time be overseen by Dutch, French or British masters. Ultimately by the 1830s they spread north, declaring their own independent republics and shook off their British masters.

As the fabulous mineral wealth of Southern Africa became apparent, the British became more prominently involved, eventually claiming all of South Africa as a British possession. The Anglo Boer war from 1899 to 1902 gave the Dutch Settlers (Afrikaaners) a shot at real independence, but the British won that war and the rest is history so to speak.

One of the great characters that South Africa produced coming out of the diamond mines in Kimberley and the gold mines near Johannesburg was Cecil Rhodes. A great Empire loyalist, he acquired massive wealth through his mining endeavors and became the Governor of the Cape Province. He was determined to use his wealth and influence to grow the empire and began to push British influence north beyond South Africa’s borders. His ultimate intention was to paint the map of Africa pink from Cape Town to Cairo. This would be symbolized by a north south railway line linking the two cities. Lord Kitchener was building a railway south from Egypt to bring Sudan under control and Cecil Rhodes was pushing north from South Africa ever expanding northwards. This effort finally ground to a halt in 1922 a mere five hundred miles apart.
Colonial Africa - 1940


Cecil Rhodes in his drive north from South Africa, gained a concession from the paramount chief of the Matabele nation, Lobengula. The concession granted mining rights, but it wasn’t long before settlers arrived in 1890 and began to claim much of the land for farming. Matabele power was broken in the 1890s and the country of Rhodesia, now known as Zimbabwe, was born. This was followed by Northern Rhodesia, now known as Zambia, and was to be where Cheryl and I grew up and spent our formative years.

Under the British development of the two Rhodesia’s moved forward at a good clip. Mining and farming became the foundation stones of two thriving little colonies. Over the next fifty years or so, roads, schools, hospitals, airports and other infrastructure were all being built at a furious pace. Life in the colonies was good for the settlers and it could be argued that it was better for the indigenous folk who now began to enjoy the benefits of schooling, hospitals, work opportunities and all that civilization could offer.

The colonial mindset was definitely that British rule was good for everyone. Such things as voting rights for all and other such high minded ideals did not even enter the thinking. Clearly development was a “good thing” and there were no qualms about being colonial oppressors or any other such unhappy thoughts.

After the World Wars, nationalism began to take root amongst indigenous folk throughout the British Empire. Indigenous troops were fighting for Britain in their wars and returning home wondering why they couldn’t enjoy the same rights and privileges as their fellow white soldiers who they had fought and died alongside. After the Second World War, this groundswell became a tidal wave. Britain along with France and Portugal began to realize that they couldn’t sustain their hold on power for ever and began to loosen their grip. Starting with India in 1947 the Great British Empire began to unwind.
Map of Africa by Independence Date
By the 1960s it was pretty much game over for the colonists in Africa as Britain began to relinquish control back to duly elected governments. Northern Rhodesia became an independent Zambia in 1964.  Rhodesia, under a white controlled government, initially resisted this wave, claiming that blacks “would not rule in a thousand years” and made their UDI (unilateral declaration of independence) from Britain in 1965. The Portuguese waged their own war against African nationalist freedom fighters and eventually in 1975 gave up and walked away, virtually overnight, leaving Angola and Mozambique to find their own way. Rhodesia, shunned by the world, lasted fifteen years on their own and eventually capitulated to “one man one vote,  “becoming modern day Zimbabwe in 1980.

That left South Africa as the last bastion of white rule in Southern Africa. With the wars against Rhodesia and Portugal over by 1980 the heat was turned up on South Africa through international sanctions. The excesses of apartheid did not help their cause and ultimately by 1990 Nelson Mandela was released from jail and negotiations began towards the goal of majority rule, which was achieved in 1994. This ended the colonial era in Southern Africa.

It was in this context that Cheryl and I spent our growing up and early adult years. We started off in an idyllic world of privilege and comfort surrounded by an exhilarating feeling of great things being done as Northern Rhodesia developed and grew. Southern Africa was strong and growing. We knew that British/colonial rule was a good thing that was happening in our country. As time went on, and indigenous Africans began to demand their place in the sun, our colonial presuppositions were challenged and we began a long process of having to face up to the demands of a changing world.

As black majority rule progressed across Southern Africa, there were many breakdowns of infrastructure and we had to get used to the fact that black rule, whilst fairer on paper, was not necessarily moving the country forward in a straight line. The schooling system previously enjoyed by whites collapsed quickly in Zambia, forcing parents to send their children to boarding school in neighboring Rhodesia or South Africa. As jobs, previously only open to whites were Zambianised, the conversation for families was often along the lines of “when will we leave”? This began a steady flow of ex Northern Rhodesians heading south to live in Rhodesia or South Africa where the good colonial life was as yet undisturbed. This process was repeated when Rhodesia became Zimbabwe in 1980 and we see a comparable phenomenon now happening in South Africa as white families decide to pursue their futures, outside of Africa, where their “whiteness” is not a disadvantage.

As this brief synopsis indicates, the history of Southern Africa in the last 60 – 70 years has been a challenging time to live through if you started off as a card carrying son of the Empire. White colonialists have had to live through a painful process of letting go of their privileged and protected status, generally forsaking it for much less efficient and friendly governments. Oppressive white minority power has been replaced by and large by corrupt black politicians, another minority, who are more concerned with lining their own pockets than caring for the welfare of their electorates. Development for the common people under their watch has been spotty to put it generously.

Cheryl’s and my families have naturally been part of the process and much of our personal histories are a natural outcome of what has been going on in the background. Why did we both have to do our schooling away from home? Why was it necessary to do our university studies in South Africa and not our home country of Zambia and so on? Why did I never have to be part of the military conscription in South Africa which was supporting the system of apartheid, so much abhorred around the world? Why did we leave our parents and siblings in South Africa to live in Canada, half a world away? All of these life changing events were governed by the historical forces which in a multitude of ways have shaped the story of our lives.

On one level this sounds like we were at the mercy of a variety of societal tectonic shifts at work in the background. Whilst this is true, to an extent, nevertheless we see the hand of God at work in our personal lives. Never were we alone. Never did God’s eyes stray from His watch over us. We have experienced the guiding and caring hand of our Father in heaven, such that when we find ourselves now residing happily in Canada, half a world away, with our families growing around us, it does not feel as though we arrived here by mistake. God is good and He is faithful. We have learnt that and are learning it still.

I hope you will chuckle and laugh and ache a bit at times in your own right as you share the adventure of our lives with us. May God bless you as you do.


Rob Cornish